Tuyen Lam translates as "Jungle Spring", an apt name for this pristine lake surrounded by lush jungle just seven kilometres from downtown Da Lat. I take a boat across Tuyen Lam Lake to Da Tien (Fairy Stones), where visitors can rent stilt-houses, some of which are big enough to hold large groups, and some made just for couples. As Da Lat is Vietnam’s favourite honeymoon destination, I imagine a lot of newlyweds come here to enjoy the romantic views. If you want privacy, houseboats are another good option. In the mid-day heat, it is pleasant to stay on the boat and fish. Come dusk, birdwatchers can venture into the forest that surrounds the lake.

Coming here, visitors can ride elephants for sightseeing. Bordered by ferns as tall as a man, the track through the jungle is just wide enough to allow my massive mount to pass. I feel as if I entered a scene from the film Jurassic Park. Sitting on a padded chair atop a towering elephant, I enjoy the breeze and the sense of being at the same height as the treetops. Here and there I have a view of K’ho villages, and the smoke from distant cooking fires rising into the air.

After rolling along for two leisurely hours I reach the eco-tourism resort of Nui Voi (Elephant Mountain). The view is heavenly with the surrounding slopes covered with thick foliage rustling in the wind.

Guests can stay in stilt-houses or, if they have no fear of heights, in tree houses made from wood and bamboo. Some of the houses are shaped like baskets, with a dome-shaped roof. They are even equipped with electricity and modern plumping.

Communal showers are set in a cave in a hillside.

As darkness falls, it turns cool. The cold air and the strange noises of the jungle seem to melt away as I move closer to the fire. I join people from Darahoa village in roasting corn, beans and dried venison over the flames. Some K’ho children sing and perform traditional dances. It is cosy inside the house and the darkness of the surrounding jungle makes this gathering seem even warmer.

Visitors to Lam Dong can now choose from a wide variety of tours. They can ride elephants, mountain bike, trek, and bird-watch. There are even specialised tours for hunters, who pay big money for the privilege of shooting deer, hippos, wild boar and jungle fowl around Pang Pa-Lam Ha, some 92km from Da Lat.

By Do Thi Tham